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Chanel’s 25 Bag – A New “It Bag” in the Making?

Luxury powerhouse Chanel is betting big on its new 25 bag, heavily investing in marketing with global stars Jennie (Blackpink) and Dua Lipa. This move follows the runaway success of the Chanel 22 bag, which became the brand’s top-performing cash cow since its 2022 debut. Within just two weeks of launch, search interest in the 25 bag surpassed that of the 22, signaling its rapid rise.

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Chanel’s Strategy – Classic Icons + Fresh Drops

Unlike Hermès, which relies on its “BKC Trinity” (Birkin, Kelly, Constance), Chanel builds its handbag empire around a dual model:

• Classic Icons: Classic Flap, Boy Chanel
• Seasonal/New Icons: 19, 22, and now 25

This strategy combines price hikes on classic staples with frequent new releases to maintain excitement and drive sales.

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The Challenge of Creating a “Classic”

Building a truly timeless handbag is harder than ever. Many brands—Ferragamo, Moynat, Valextra—have iconic designs but struggle to turn them into sustainable sales drivers. Unlike Hermès, whose Birkin and Kelly bags remain chronically undersupplied, most brands face oversupply of classics and must rely on new trends to boost revenue.

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When New Bags Look Too Similar

The handbag market is now flooded with lookalike designs. Examples include:

• Dior’s Book Tote inspiring oversized totes across the industry
• Celine’s Triomphe lock spurring similar crossbody styles
• Prada’s hobo revival fueling countless shoulder-bag imitations

This trend-chasing has shortened the lifespan of “it bags”, leaving consumers fatigued and shifting attention to smaller or niche brands.

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Rising Niche & Affordable Alternatives

While luxury giants fight over bag supremacy, contemporary and niche brands are gaining ground:

• The Row’s Margaux
• Alaïa’s Le Teckel
• Lemaire’s Croissant bag
• Coach’s Empire Carryall (hailed as a “budget Birkin” among Gen Z)

These options offer trend-savvy styles at lower prices, appealing to younger buyers in uncertain economic times.

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The Innovation vs. Protection Dilemma

Even when brands innovate, design patents are difficult to secure, making it easy for competitors (or fast fashion) to release near-identical versions. Hermès, despite protections for the Birkin, still faces copycats worldwide. This dilutes exclusivity and accelerates trend turnover.

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The Bigger Risk – Eroding Handbag Value

Luxury handbags were once prized for their timeless appeal, durability, and brand symbolism. But as brands prioritize trend-driven releases and aggressive pricing strategies, they risk undermining this foundation. Consumers are increasingly turning to “dupes” or affordable substitutes instead of paying premiums for logos.

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Final Thoughts – Handbag Wars May Backfire

The handbag category remains the cash cow of luxury fashion, but overcompetition, copycat designs, and reliance on hype cycles may be eroding the long-term value of luxury handbags. Brands like Chanel, Hermès, and Louis Vuitton must balance innovation, timeless design, and exclusivity if they want to preserve the prestige of the handbag crown.